One Month In

As of yesterday, I am officially a month into my trip. I cannot believe it. I arrived in Mexico, bused through Belize, and am now in Guatemala. So how did this month go?

In all honesty, my first month was wonderful and difficult and incredible and lonely and beautiful and scary. I can still place myself in those first couple of weeks – everyday was spent searching for a few hours of happiness and comfort. I was trying to escape the loneliness that was brought on by my new surroundings and uncertainty about my trip. I enjoyed my time, but I considered completing the day a success and consistently asked myself, “When am I going to start enjoying this? When does the amazingness begin?” I wanted my trip to be more than it was at that moment and I just was not getting to that point. Looking back, it all trickled down to fear. I began my trip a fearful traveler and now I see the way that it impacted each day. I did not want to talk to others in a different language or venture out of my room. I did not want to be without internet because then I could not talk with those at home. I did not want to jump off of a bridge and into the water below. I wanted to be out of my comfort zone but only to the point that made me comfortable. Ironic, right?

And then my trip started to get good. I finally began to accept the rhythm of the road. I was less and less fazed by unexpected challenges or lack of a definite plan. Since the beginning of my trip, my mantra had been, “I can handle it,” but that was more of a saying to keep me going and ease my anxiety. Now it is a true mantra and one that I carry almost subconsciously. Each day is an improvement on the one before. Saying yes is easier and wanting a new challenge is becoming second nature. That underlying fear has been replaced with an underlying peace and joy; a comfort in my trip as well as who I am.

As I reflect on my first month, I know that my days were not ideal and smooth sailing. The thing is, that is okay. I did not decide to do a solo trip around the world because it is the easy or comfortable choice. I wanted to struggle and surpass the edges of my comfort zone and continually impress myself with new accomplishments. I would not want any other beginning. If I had not had these trials, I could not appreciate the happiness that I feel today.

This past weekend, I shared pizza and beer with fellow travelers from Wales, England, New Zealand, Denmark, and Holland. I felt no fear or loneliness. Only excitement and curiosity and contentment. We shared bits of our backgrounds and swapped stories and added new places to our travel bucket lists. Before we ate, I stood back, took a picture, and smiled because I am finally beginning to experience the amazingness.

And with that, bring on Month 2! To celebrate the end of Month 1 and the beginning of my birthday week, I will be climbing a volcano on Saturday, and then spending the day swimming and exploring Panajachal (a city on the shore of Lake Atitlan) with friends on Sunday. Have a blessed day, mis amigos!

Beyond Words: Semuc Champey

"Beyond Words" is a post that is mainly a collection of photos. A short description is provided but the visual experience is the main purpose. Enjoy!

If I had to sum up my day in Semuc Champey, I'd say that it was like doing an obstacle course through the most unbelievable scenery I have ever seen. Full disclosure: I am in no way an athlete or in top physical condition. I knew my day spent at Semuc Champey would be extremely physical, but during some of the toughest parts of the day, I would just pause to look around me and stand in disbelief of the incredible beauty surrounding me. To start our day, our group was gathered together to get into the back of a pickup truck for the rocky and winding 30-minute ride from our hostel to Semuc Champey. Once we got to the river, we began with a rope swing into the river, followed by a candlelight tour of a cave river (it sounds romantic but it was more like climbing through a cave by candlelight – tough but super fun), and then we had the opportunity to jump from a bridge into the river. After a lunch buffet cooked by local women, we did an arduous 25-minute hike up to the top of the mountain for a spectacular view of the natural pools in the valley below, and then a hike down the mountain to spend the rest of the afternoon swimming, diving, and exploring the natural pools and waterfalls. At the end of the day, I was in complete awe of both myself and the extraordinary day I had just experienced.

I belly flopped into the water, so this is Sian gracefully flying off the swing.

The river that we had been swimming in earlier in the day flows UNDER (rather than into) the pools that we swam in. Super cool to see!

But we made it! Cheers to unforgettable day!

Lessons Learned in Flores

I am not sure how to sum up what my time in Flores meant to me. I arrived at my hostel around six in the evening, watched a beautiful sunset while I ate my dinner, went to my dorm room, and proceeded to bawl for a solid 30 minutes. As in, shoulders heaving, could-not-catch-my-breath, loud cries, eyes-swollen-in-the-morning breakdown session. There were numerous factors that lead to this, but in summary, traveling solo is HARD sometimes. Needless to say, I did not sleep much that evening, but I got up in the morning with a renewed intention of conquering my time in Flores. And conquer it, I did! Though I had booked four nights, I stayed for a week because Flores ended up being exactly what I needed at that point in my travels.

Flores was the first time that I was completely on my own without any clue as to my next move. When I arrived at my hostel, everyone was in a couple and no one was speaking English. A few of the nights, I was the only one assigned to my dorm room. Fact: when you are traveling solo, your dorm room is a fantastic place to meet others, except when you are staying in a dorm room by yourself.  So I had to venture out of my hostel to meet people. I had met a woman from Canada on the bus and, once I got up my first morning, I made a point to set up lunch with her. We ended up spending the next few days exploring Flores and Tikal, meeting other travelers, and relaxing at my hostel. During these days, I learned that everyone else is feeling just as intimated as me. Eventually, I had wonderful conversations with those couples at my hostel and they ended up sharing some great stories and recommendations based on their travels. They had been in my shoes before and reassured me that I was on the right track to fully enjoying my time on the road. Relief had never felt so good!

Another challenge that I encountered in Flores was the pressure I put on myself to have a plan – what is my next destination, where am I staying, how will I get there, when will I leave, what am I going to do in my next place. Here’s what I have found: figuring out my next move and traveling to a city solo and then finding my hostel and deciding what to do from there has been the MOST STRESSFUL part of my trip. To the point that I cannot sleep the night before I travel and my stomach is in knots and I cannot eat. This is how I exhibit stress in my everyday life so these symptoms were not new to me, but I knew this kind of stress could ruin my trip. (As I am writing this, I am 3 weeks into my trip. I am used to traveling and no longer feel the stress. Morale of the story: it gets better!) In Flores, I purposely stayed extra nights for a few reasons – I very much enjoyed my hostel and the city, I had not come up with a plan of where to go next, and my friends were arriving in Flores the day I was originally set to leave. I learned these are all excellent reasons to stay in a place! This is MY trip; therefore, the only pressure to move on is the pressure that I put on myself. With that realization, the anxiety to spend my nights scouring travel guides rather than being captivated by my surroundings dissipated.

So what did I do in Flores besides learn some vital lessons? I visited Tikal. I talked with several fascinating people. I met up with Anna and Sian, and we decided to travel more or less than same path for the subsequent 6 weeks. I wrote and blogged and chatted with friends and family. I took photos and went canoeing. I explored Flores and became familiar with its narrow streets and boat system. I left Flores a better traveler than when I arrived. For all of this, I am grateful and content.

And so from Flores, I moved on to Lanquin and Semuc Champey, one of the most beautiful areas in Guatemala. You better believe I took some amazing pictures! Until next time, friends…

Beyond Words: Tikal

"Beyond Words" is a post that is mainly a collection of photos. A short description is provided but the visual experience is the main purpose. Enjoy!

During my pre-trip planning, Tikal was the first “attraction” that I knew I HAD to experience. When it came to booking my tour, I discovered there was the option to watch the sunrise over the jungle and temples of Tikal. I have never seen a sunrise before and decided this was the perfect opportunity to witness my first one. So I got up at 3 am, traveled by bus to the Tikal National Park, hiked 30 minutes into the jungle, and climbed 196 steps to the top of the highest of the ancient temples. There, I sat in complete silence to watch the sun bloom over the horizon as the sound of howler monkeys awakening in the trees below provided the most surreal background music. It was a breathtaking and awe-inspiring moment. One that I will never forget.

Pathway leading to one of the dwelling areas.

The panoramic view of the main center from the dwelling area.

Busing to Guatemala

My bus was scheduled to leave at 11:40 pm from the bus station in Playa del Carmen, Mexico. Anna and Sian, two Welsh girls that I had met at my hostel, walked me to the station. We chatted and laughed. Though my bus would be overnight and my journey would take several hours, I was in good spirits as I bade farewell to my friends and got on the bus. I settled in my seat and set my iPod to my Spanish playlist. I thought to myself, “This is comfortable! I am just fine. This is going to be fun.” Soon, l feel asleep to the lull of the bus.

About an hour later, I slowly awakened to the realization that I was extremely cold and shivering. Once fully awake, I noted that the AC had been turned on full blast. All the other passengers were bundled up in jackets, hats, and blankets. Boy, did I miss the memo! I was wearing yoga pants, sneakers, and a long sleeve shirt, but nothing substantial. I dug my scarf out of my bag, wrapped it around my body, and pined for my fleece jacket securely tucked away in my backpack in the under carriage of the bus. For the next two hours, I went through a mind-numbing cycle of nodding off for 20 minutes, waking up due to the cold and my uncomfortable positioning, shifting into yet another awkward position, nodding off again only to reawaken 20 minutes later.

By 3:30 am, we had reached the border of Mexico and Belize. All passengers left the bus to go through immigration and customs. Excited to stretch my legs and leave the freezing bus, I stepped outside and was shocked. Not only was it cold, but it was colder than the bus! Where did the warm Playa temperatures go? So half asleep and fully cold, I spent the next 15 minutes standing outside to wait my turn to go through customs. Then, sadly, got back on to the bus to continue the cycle of falling asleep and waking up all the way to Belize City.

Around 7 in the morning, we arrived in Belize City. Prior to our arrival, I was expecting lush nature and sparkling water and a pang of jealousy that I would not be stopping over in this paradise. What I got was dull colored buildings, very few people (and no tourists) around, bars on the windows and barbed wire atop fences. Obviously I did not do proper (or any) research on Belize because I was in disbelief. (Please note: there are amazing places to visit in Belize, but I was not in one of those places. Again, this was due to my lack of research.) As a traveler, you are supposed to trust your gut instinct. Mine was telling me that Belize City was not a place I wanted to hang around. Nervously, I exited the bus, asked around to where I could get my next bus, and found a taxi. Thankfully, my taxi driver was a kind man who took me to the terminal and even walked me to the store from which I was to buy my next bus ticket to Flores, Guatemala. By 7:30, I had purchased my ticket and was sitting in the front of the store to wait for my 10 am bus to arrive; weary but content.

My bus did not arrive until 10:45, but it arrived nonetheless. It was comfortable and did not blast the AC. I was so happy that I opened the widow curtain to feel the sun on me as I settled in for a solid nap. Two and a half hours later, we were crossing the border from Belize to Guatemala, and I instantly felt better. Since I felt really connected to Guatemala during my planning, it was a relief to finally arrive in the country that I will be calling “home” for the next few weeks. The border crossing occurred without incident (thanks to the bus owner who gave very specific instructions for the fees and process of crossing this border – it is not a straight forward process). Two hours later, we had arrived at Santa Elena. We switched to a smaller shuttle to get to the island of Flores. When the passengers and I saw the van, we all thought it was a joke. It ended up being fine, but for a moment, we were not sure whether we should get into the van or not. From there, I took a water taxi for the five-minute ride from Flores to San Miguel. Then took a tuk tuk up the hill to my hostel. I arrived in time to watch the sunset while enjoying a bowl of spaghetti carbonara made by the cook.

And that was my first major experience traveling through Central America. It was not a complete disaster and I know I will probably have much worse experiences during my travels. Yesterday, Anna and Sian arrived in Flores and I found out that they had to pay fake fees at both border crossings. A woman at my hostel came from a different area of Mexico. Due to a landslide that caused the road to be blocked, she had to exit the bus and walk her two heavy suitcases a mile and a half in the midday sun to the next town. So it seems that I lucked out in my first bus experience, but, still, here’s to good travel vibes for the next year! Cheers, friends!

Playa del Carmen and a Decision

I spent about 4 days in Playa del Carmen. My first two were awkward and lonely. It was difficult to break out of my shell. Upon my arrival, I quickly learned that most of the people at my hostel spoke only Spanish. Apparently Playa del Carmen is a vacation destination for many Mexicans as well as foreigners. As someone extremely new to the backpacker lifestyle and wanting to expand my knowledge, I was looking around to find other backpackers or English speakers like me and I was finding no one. On the plus side, my hostel had great WiFi, comfortable beds, and clean bathrooms. I decided to extend my stay by a day to figure out my next move. And on that third day, my experience changed completely. Some new people joined the hostel and they spoke English. A couple of them were traveling alone. A few of them were backpackers that were also traveling Central America in the same fashion as me. I had found my tribe! For the next two days, I became a part of it all. It was now easy to mix with the hostel, grab a meal or a beer with a group, and go to the beach with others. Finally, I did not feel alone in this journey. I could bounce ideas off of others and hear about their experiences. It was fantastic! Those two days gave me a taste of the community that I can find on the road and I was instantly hooked.

My time in Playa del Carmen also highlighted that my lack of Spanish is hindering my experience. Perhaps I will get to know a lot of English speakers, but what about non-English speakers and the locals? My entire trip is going to be limited if I do not make learning Spanish a priority. Since I started trip planning, I knew that I wanted to study Spanish in Guatemala. It’s a country known for its Spanish courses. Therefore, rather than spend more days in Mexico and Belize, I decided to bus directly to Guatemala and speed up the beginning of my language courses. There are a couple of cities that I want to visit prior to getting to the towns in which I will be studying, so I will have to rely on my limited Spanish vocabulary for a little while longer.

Now that I had decided to spend my time in Guatemala, I had to travel from Playa del Carmen to Guatemala. That is a story in itself. Look for that in my next post.

And the Adventure Begins!

Well, I did it! I got on an airplane with just my backpack, flew to Mexico, and started my adventure. I am still in slight disbelief that I have actually started my trip. In all honesty, the two weeks leading up to my departure date, I was dreading this trip. The day before my departure, I constantly felt like I was going to throw up, or cry, or both. There was so much fear about leaving everything that I know and traveling solo to a part of the world where I know no one and do not speak the language. Talk about guilt – after all of this planning and dreaming, I could not muster an ounce of excitement. All I kept telling myself was, “Just make it to your hostel. Just make it to your hostel.”

Surprisingly, once I got through the security check at the airport, a calm overtook me. Maybe it was not excitement, but calm is definitely preferred over fear and nausea. Even more surprisingly, that calm remained with me throughout my flight to Cancun, finding my bus at the airport, the drive to Playa del Carmen, and the walk to my hostel. It was an odd feeling, but it felt almost natural and familiar to be traveling. Having found my hostel and meeting my goal for the day, I celebrated with a beer and a hot shower(!) and an early night.

So now what? That is the question that has been on my mind since I woke up this morning. Though traveling here was quite smooth, there are plenty of aspects that are making my trip uncomfortable for the moment – traveling solo instead of with others, not speaking the language, never having traveled as a backpacker before. It is all new and I am uncertain about EVERYTHING. I expected this but the uncertainty is pretty crippling.

Instead of stressing about it, I decided to enjoy the moment. I am staying at a clean and comfortable hostel so I will be relaxing here for most of the day; enjoying the rooftop deck and probably taking a nap. Today’s challenge is to wander around and find a delicious place for dinner. Wish me luck!