Beyond Words: Antigua and Semana Santa

"Beyond Words" is a post that is mainly a collection of photos. A short description is provided but the visual experience is the main purpose. Enjoy!

Antigua, Guatemala is one of my favorite cities that I have visited during my trip. The city is romantic and historical and modern. It was a thrilling mix that fed every type of travel craving from roaming cobblestoned streets to visiting 200-year-old churches to enjoying the best brownie of my life in an ex-pat French bakery. I was there during Semana Santa, or the week before Easter. There were beautiful alfombras in the street, round-the-clock processions, extravagantly decorated churches, and LOTS of people. I spent the week enjoying the city, taking in the culture, making some amazing new friends, and visiting with an old friend. A special week, indeed!

Beyond Words: San Pedro

"Beyond Words" is a post that is mainly a collection of photos. A short description is provided but the visual experience is the main purpose. Enjoy!

San Pedro was both beautiful and filled with wonderful moments. Each of the following photos is a memory for me and brings a smile to my face. What a blessed life to have such an experience!

Farewell, Lago Atitlan!

Grateful for San Pedro

I spent a month in San Pedro, Guatemala learning Spanish, living with a family, hanging out with friends, hiking, and having an unforgettable experience. I tried in vain to capture my time in this pueblo on the edge of Lake Atitlan, but that type of post would go on for pages and pages. My trip changed from scary to exhilarating during my month here, and the only word to properly sums up my feelings is: grateful. In that spirit, here is a listing of some of the experiences that I am most grateful for during my month in San Pedro La Laguna.

My family. Their openness and generosity and humor and love was the most wonderful gift. They are the reason that I stayed for a month rather than a week. I know that I will always have family in San Pedro, and that we will see each other again in the future.

Mi Familia! - Marina, Clemente, Clemen, Rachel, Junior (asleep), Esteban, and me
Mi Familia! - Marina, Clemente, Clemen, Rachel, Junior (asleep), Esteban, and me

My school and teacher. San Pedro Spanish School was the absolute correct choice for me. I learned so much in a month – about Spanish and the culture of San Pedro. Teresa, my teacher, was the right fit for me as well. I could feel my daily progress, and she made class so much fun. She taught me so well that I was able to joke with her during my last week and we were in stitches half the time.

The people of San Pedro. They were so kind and beautiful and proud and welcoming. Learning some of their history and their culture has made me appreciate and respect Guatemala in a different way.

My birthday! I thought this would be the loneliest birthday since I would be away from my family and friends. Instead, it was a birthday like no other and filled with more love and friendship and family than I could ever have imagined. My family had a wonderful fiesta with extended family and my friends from school. They went all out – decorations, tamales, gifts, games. I was laughing so hard that I was crying.

Zara, me, Anna, and Rachel making tamales for my fiesta!
Zara, me, Anna, and Rachel making tamales for my fiesta!

My Saturdays at home. Here is what I did every Saturday morning – ate breakfast, went to the market with Marina, hand washed my clothes, cleaned my room and bathroom, and then ate lunch with the family. I enjoyed being a part of the family and having chores (I am sure that this is only a temporary development).

Rachel. I have never had a sister, and, dang, this girl is awesome! I am so glad that she lives in Seattle so that we can visit often.

Laughing at dinner with Clemente, Marina, and Rachael. Going on runs with Marina. Sitting around and talking with Marina and Clemente’s extended family. The sound of Tz'utujil, the Mayan language of San Pedro. These moments were the norm and the foundation of my family time.

All of the new and old friends. You know who you are and I will never forget you.

Buddha Bar. There were so many great times of splitting a liter of Gallo with friends, meeting fellow travelers, playing pool, and listening to a live band.

Getting my nose pierced with Sian, Anna, and Rachel.

Saying “hola” to everyone. Teresa explained to me that according to the Mayan culture of San Pedro, it is extremely rude to pass by someone in the streets and not greet the person. In her words, “You are considered a street dog. Those dogs just walk by with no acknowledgment of a person.” So I greeted everyone when I walked past them and they returned the gesture as if I was one of the community rather than a tourist.

Climbing mountains. San Pedro (and Guatemala) is filled with natural beauty unlike anything I have seen. I am thankful that I got out and experienced it – even if one of those days was incredibly tough.

Standing at the top of Volcan San Pedro
Standing at the top of Volcan San Pedro

Salsa dancing. Every Thursday night, my school had salsa class. That is where I met Rachael. It is also where I remembered how much I LOVE dancing. I went out salsa dancing one Wednesday night. When I got home, my checks hurt and I realized that I had been smiling the whole time I was dancing.

Living so close to the lake. Visiting San Marcos for the day. Kayaking, swimming, the beach – I have always loved the water and being near it as part of daily life made my soul happy.

So, thank you, San Pedro! My time around the lake will always be near to my heart and an integral part of my trip.

From there, I have moved on to Antigua for Semana Santa, or Easter week. The festivities are supposed to be beautiful, symbolic, and unique. I can’t wait!

First Leg Packing List

One of the first questions I got when I told people that I was backpacking around the world was, "So what are you going to pack?" I fretted over this decision and read several different prescribed packing lists and watched numerous YouTube videos. Most sources were extolling the “less is more” route, which is not exactly my style. Eventually, I decided to ignore the prescribed lists and pack what I wanted. In general, I am not a high maintenance person and ended up balancing the practical with LE-specific luxuries. As I have now been on the road for six weeks, I have found this was the right choice for me. So here it is! All of the following items fit into my big backpack (a 75L Osprey Aria that I have named Fiona) or my small day pack. I also purchased a waterproof shell for my pack. I can turn the shell into a duffel bag and put my entire Osprey backpack in it and secure it with a lock. I carry my backpack like this on planes and buses to keep the straps from catching or someone breaking into my bag.

Clothing:

  • 4 tank tops
  • 5 t-shirts
  • 2 long sleeve shirts
  • 1 cardigan
  • 1 dress (It's the 7-ways dress from American Apparel that can be either a dress or a skirt.)
  • 1 skirt
  • 2 shorts (1 pair of running shorts and 1 normal pair)
  • 1 pair of yoga pants
  • 1 pair of leggings
  • 1 pair of Sahara pants that can be rolled into capris
  • 1 pair of pajamas
  • 1 bathing suit
  • 3 pairs of socks
  • 4 bras (2 sports, 1 strapless and 1 normal)
  • 4 pairs of underwear (They are Ex Officio, and are wash and wear. Minimalist travelers only bring 2 pairs so I am being excessive.)
  • 3 pairs of shoes (running shoes, flip flops, and dressy sandals)

Toiletries and Accessories:

  • Toiletries – 2-in-1 shampoo and conditioner, body wash, lotion, sunscreen, daytime moisturizer, face cleanser, face exfoliating pad, deodorant, avocado oil (for shaving), argan and rosehip oils (for nighttime moisturizer), toothpaste, toothbrush, floss, razor, replacement razors, *feminine products, contact solution, *contact case, * extract contacts, *chap sticks, brush, *hair ties, *bobby pins
  • *Makeup: BB cream, foundation, setting powder, blush, eye shadow, mascara, eyelash curler, travel makeup brushes
  • Medicines (Cipro, altitude pills, malaria pills, stomach pills, ibuprofen, Tums, antibacterial cream, band aids)
  • Camera with flotation strap (My camera is waterproof, dustproof, shockproof aka awesome!)
  • 1 sarong and 1 scarf
  • 2 travel towels (a large one for my long, thick hair and a small one for my body)
  • Compass with my initials engraved on it – a very special gift from my best friend
  • Steripen to purify my water
  • External hard drive
  • Chargers and cords
  • Passport carrying pouch
  • Sleeping silk
  • Taser

Daypack Items and Extras:

  • REI small backpack that can be rolled into a pouch and stored when not being used
  • Collapsible water bottle (Thanks, Mike!)
  • Journal (Thanks to Zubin and Reena!)
  • Book (I absolutely LOVED “Wild” by Cheryl Strayed!)
  • Eat’N Tool (spoon, fork, wrenches, and bottle opener)
  • Eye mask
  • Sun glasses
  • Regular glasses (and I brought my old pair as a backup)
  • Lifestraw (Thank you, Jonathan!)
  • Flashlight
  • Small purse
  • Laptop
  • *Unlocked cell phone
  • *iPod and headphones
  • Packing cubes (2 large and 1 small. The large ones are double sided so that I can keep clean clothes separate from dirty or damp ones.)
  • Wind resistant, water resistant warm jacket (I got this instead of a normal fleece jacket)
  • Rain shell
  • *TSA locks for locking my duffel when I travel or for lockers in hostels

* Item is not pictured

There you have it! Hopefully this helps anyone that was curious or anyone planning on taking a trip. Since I began my trip, I have made a few minor changes which I will incorporate in the next leg of my trip. Until next time...

Beyond Words: Semuc Champey

"Beyond Words" is a post that is mainly a collection of photos. A short description is provided but the visual experience is the main purpose. Enjoy!

If I had to sum up my day in Semuc Champey, I'd say that it was like doing an obstacle course through the most unbelievable scenery I have ever seen. Full disclosure: I am in no way an athlete or in top physical condition. I knew my day spent at Semuc Champey would be extremely physical, but during some of the toughest parts of the day, I would just pause to look around me and stand in disbelief of the incredible beauty surrounding me. To start our day, our group was gathered together to get into the back of a pickup truck for the rocky and winding 30-minute ride from our hostel to Semuc Champey. Once we got to the river, we began with a rope swing into the river, followed by a candlelight tour of a cave river (it sounds romantic but it was more like climbing through a cave by candlelight – tough but super fun), and then we had the opportunity to jump from a bridge into the river. After a lunch buffet cooked by local women, we did an arduous 25-minute hike up to the top of the mountain for a spectacular view of the natural pools in the valley below, and then a hike down the mountain to spend the rest of the afternoon swimming, diving, and exploring the natural pools and waterfalls. At the end of the day, I was in complete awe of both myself and the extraordinary day I had just experienced.

I belly flopped into the water, so this is Sian gracefully flying off the swing.
I belly flopped into the water, so this is Sian gracefully flying off the swing.
The river that we had been swimming in earlier in the day flows UNDER (rather than into) the pools that we swam in. Super cool to see!
The river that we had been swimming in earlier in the day flows UNDER (rather than into) the pools that we swam in. Super cool to see!
But we made it! Cheers to unforgettable day!
But we made it! Cheers to unforgettable day!

Beyond Words: Tikal

"Beyond Words" is a post that is mainly a collection of photos. A short description is provided but the visual experience is the main purpose. Enjoy!

During my pre-trip planning, Tikal was the first “attraction” that I knew I HAD to experience. When it came to booking my tour, I discovered there was the option to watch the sunrise over the jungle and temples of Tikal. I have never seen a sunrise before and decided this was the perfect opportunity to witness my first one. So I got up at 3 am, traveled by bus to the Tikal National Park, hiked 30 minutes into the jungle, and climbed 196 steps to the top of the highest of the ancient temples. There, I sat in complete silence to watch the sun bloom over the horizon as the sound of howler monkeys awakening in the trees below provided the most surreal background music. It was a breathtaking and awe-inspiring moment. One that I will never forget.

Pathway leading to one of the dwelling areas.

The panoramic view of the main center from the dwelling area.

Busing to Guatemala

My bus was scheduled to leave at 11:40 pm from the bus station in Playa del Carmen, Mexico. Anna and Sian, two Welsh girls that I had met at my hostel, walked me to the station. We chatted and laughed. Though my bus would be overnight and my journey would take several hours, I was in good spirits as I bade farewell to my friends and got on the bus. I settled in my seat and set my iPod to my Spanish playlist. I thought to myself, “This is comfortable! I am just fine. This is going to be fun.” Soon, l feel asleep to the lull of the bus.

About an hour later, I slowly awakened to the realization that I was extremely cold and shivering. Once fully awake, I noted that the AC had been turned on full blast. All the other passengers were bundled up in jackets, hats, and blankets. Boy, did I miss the memo! I was wearing yoga pants, sneakers, and a long sleeve shirt, but nothing substantial. I dug my scarf out of my bag, wrapped it around my body, and pined for my fleece jacket securely tucked away in my backpack in the under carriage of the bus. For the next two hours, I went through a mind-numbing cycle of nodding off for 20 minutes, waking up due to the cold and my uncomfortable positioning, shifting into yet another awkward position, nodding off again only to reawaken 20 minutes later.

By 3:30 am, we had reached the border of Mexico and Belize. All passengers left the bus to go through immigration and customs. Excited to stretch my legs and leave the freezing bus, I stepped outside and was shocked. Not only was it cold, but it was colder than the bus! Where did the warm Playa temperatures go? So half asleep and fully cold, I spent the next 15 minutes standing outside to wait my turn to go through customs. Then, sadly, got back on to the bus to continue the cycle of falling asleep and waking up all the way to Belize City.

Around 7 in the morning, we arrived in Belize City. Prior to our arrival, I was expecting lush nature and sparkling water and a pang of jealousy that I would not be stopping over in this paradise. What I got was dull colored buildings, very few people (and no tourists) around, bars on the windows and barbed wire atop fences. Obviously I did not do proper (or any) research on Belize because I was in disbelief. (Please note: there are amazing places to visit in Belize, but I was not in one of those places. Again, this was due to my lack of research.) As a traveler, you are supposed to trust your gut instinct. Mine was telling me that Belize City was not a place I wanted to hang around. Nervously, I exited the bus, asked around to where I could get my next bus, and found a taxi. Thankfully, my taxi driver was a kind man who took me to the terminal and even walked me to the store from which I was to buy my next bus ticket to Flores, Guatemala. By 7:30, I had purchased my ticket and was sitting in the front of the store to wait for my 10 am bus to arrive; weary but content.

My bus did not arrive until 10:45, but it arrived nonetheless. It was comfortable and did not blast the AC. I was so happy that I opened the widow curtain to feel the sun on me as I settled in for a solid nap. Two and a half hours later, we were crossing the border from Belize to Guatemala, and I instantly felt better. Since I felt really connected to Guatemala during my planning, it was a relief to finally arrive in the country that I will be calling “home” for the next few weeks. The border crossing occurred without incident (thanks to the bus owner who gave very specific instructions for the fees and process of crossing this border – it is not a straight forward process). Two hours later, we had arrived at Santa Elena. We switched to a smaller shuttle to get to the island of Flores. When the passengers and I saw the van, we all thought it was a joke. It ended up being fine, but for a moment, we were not sure whether we should get into the van or not. From there, I took a water taxi for the five-minute ride from Flores to San Miguel. Then took a tuk tuk up the hill to my hostel. I arrived in time to watch the sunset while enjoying a bowl of spaghetti carbonara made by the cook.

And that was my first major experience traveling through Central America. It was not a complete disaster and I know I will probably have much worse experiences during my travels. Yesterday, Anna and Sian arrived in Flores and I found out that they had to pay fake fees at both border crossings. A woman at my hostel came from a different area of Mexico. Due to a landslide that caused the road to be blocked, she had to exit the bus and walk her two heavy suitcases a mile and a half in the midday sun to the next town. So it seems that I lucked out in my first bus experience, but, still, here’s to good travel vibes for the next year! Cheers, friends!

Playa del Carmen and a Decision

I spent about 4 days in Playa del Carmen. My first two were awkward and lonely. It was difficult to break out of my shell. Upon my arrival, I quickly learned that most of the people at my hostel spoke only Spanish. Apparently Playa del Carmen is a vacation destination for many Mexicans as well as foreigners. As someone extremely new to the backpacker lifestyle and wanting to expand my knowledge, I was looking around to find other backpackers or English speakers like me and I was finding no one. On the plus side, my hostel had great WiFi, comfortable beds, and clean bathrooms. I decided to extend my stay by a day to figure out my next move. And on that third day, my experience changed completely. Some new people joined the hostel and they spoke English. A couple of them were traveling alone. A few of them were backpackers that were also traveling Central America in the same fashion as me. I had found my tribe! For the next two days, I became a part of it all. It was now easy to mix with the hostel, grab a meal or a beer with a group, and go to the beach with others. Finally, I did not feel alone in this journey. I could bounce ideas off of others and hear about their experiences. It was fantastic! Those two days gave me a taste of the community that I can find on the road and I was instantly hooked.

My time in Playa del Carmen also highlighted that my lack of Spanish is hindering my experience. Perhaps I will get to know a lot of English speakers, but what about non-English speakers and the locals? My entire trip is going to be limited if I do not make learning Spanish a priority. Since I started trip planning, I knew that I wanted to study Spanish in Guatemala. It’s a country known for its Spanish courses. Therefore, rather than spend more days in Mexico and Belize, I decided to bus directly to Guatemala and speed up the beginning of my language courses. There are a couple of cities that I want to visit prior to getting to the towns in which I will be studying, so I will have to rely on my limited Spanish vocabulary for a little while longer.

Now that I had decided to spend my time in Guatemala, I had to travel from Playa del Carmen to Guatemala. That is a story in itself. Look for that in my next post.