Challenging Nicaragua

Oh, Nicaragua. How do I sum up my time spent in Nicaragua? The main word that comes to mind is challenging. So many travelers rave about Nicaragua, but I could not fall in love with it. I ended up having a wonderful time and I will definitely be back, but I did not have an easy experience during my visit.

• The main difficulty I had in Nicaragua was acclimating to the climate. Something I did not know prior to my visit: Nicaragua is HOT! After Guatemala, which had moderate to mild temperatures, I found the daily temperatures of high 90’s and at least 50% humidity difficult to handle. The temperature was perfect from 3-6 am, but unbearable at all other times. Further, businesses do not have air conditioning so it was impossible to escape the heat during the day. It was too hot to explore or do activities or even write.
• Guidebooks and other travelers named Granada, Leon, and San Juan del Sur as “must-see” destinations (and I ended up spending most of my time in these places), but I believe that Nicaragua has much more to offer than these cities. If I were to do it again, I would do a couple of days in each of Granada, Leon, and San Juan del Sur while focusing my time on Laguna del Apoyo, Ometepe, and the Corn Islands. These last three areas are naturally beautiful and filled with culture. The weather is milder or the location is near swimmable water so the day is not wasted trying to avoid the heat. It is more expensive but I would have rather bore the expense and enjoyed more of my time in Nica.
• Out of all of the Central American countries (and I have now visited all of them), I experienced the most amount of aggression from men in Nica. It could be quite crude and I got at least one whistle, catcall, or comment on each block that I walked. That was just during the day and became more extreme at night. The aggression was not dangerous, but it was unwanted and constant and tiring.
• On top of the aggression, my fellow travelers and I were constantly lied to when it came to the timings and pricing of taxis and buses. Typically, I had to pay too much for bus tickets or activities, and bartering did not lower the price by much. Here is my perspective on pricing while I travel: in general, I do not mind paying a higher price because my dollar helps a local more than it does me. As long as both parties feel happy with the price, I am cool with it. In Nica, it got to the point that I was given an extremely high price no matter what I did and where I was. So I decided to stop doing activities and to leave after two weeks instead of three. I met some very nice locals and was given a fair price a few times, but this tended to be the exception rather than the rule.
• The reason I will always love my time in Nicaragua is because the fellow travelers that I met were awesome! Not only did I spend almost all of my time in Nica traveling with some of my travel besties, but I was introduced to such a wide variety of travelers. I was able to get lots of recommendations and stories about other locales that I should try out. Further, I met some travelers that were only visiting for a week and some that were in the middle of a multi-month backpacking trip. It was such a fantastic mix of people from all walks of life who were on their trips for different reasons and with varying end dates. Despite everything else I felt about Nica, the people that I met and times we shared made my time worthwhile!

So that was Nicaragua. I am glad that I visited the country and am grateful for my time there. I met some of my favorite people and have some wonderful stories and experiences. And now…on to Costa Rica!

Grateful for San Pedro

I spent a month in San Pedro, Guatemala learning Spanish, living with a family, hanging out with friends, hiking, and having an unforgettable experience. I tried in vain to capture my time in this pueblo on the edge of Lake Atitlan, but that type of post would go on for pages and pages. My trip changed from scary to exhilarating during my month here, and the only word to properly sums up my feelings is: grateful. In that spirit, here is a listing of some of the experiences that I am most grateful for during my month in San Pedro La Laguna.

My family. Their openness and generosity and humor and love was the most wonderful gift. They are the reason that I stayed for a month rather than a week. I know that I will always have family in San Pedro, and that we will see each other again in the future.

Mi Familia! - Marina, Clemente, Clemen, Rachel, Junior (asleep), Esteban, and me

My school and teacher. San Pedro Spanish School was the absolute correct choice for me. I learned so much in a month – about Spanish and the culture of San Pedro. Teresa, my teacher, was the right fit for me as well. I could feel my daily progress, and she made class so much fun. She taught me so well that I was able to joke with her during my last week and we were in stitches half the time.

The people of San Pedro. They were so kind and beautiful and proud and welcoming. Learning some of their history and their culture has made me appreciate and respect Guatemala in a different way.

My birthday! I thought this would be the loneliest birthday since I would be away from my family and friends. Instead, it was a birthday like no other and filled with more love and friendship and family than I could ever have imagined. My family had a wonderful fiesta with extended family and my friends from school. They went all out – decorations, tamales, gifts, games. I was laughing so hard that I was crying.

Zara, me, Anna, and Rachel making tamales for my fiesta!

My Saturdays at home. Here is what I did every Saturday morning – ate breakfast, went to the market with Marina, hand washed my clothes, cleaned my room and bathroom, and then ate lunch with the family. I enjoyed being a part of the family and having chores (I am sure that this is only a temporary development).

Rachel. I have never had a sister, and, dang, this girl is awesome! I am so glad that she lives in Seattle so that we can visit often.

Laughing at dinner with Clemente, Marina, and Rachael. Going on runs with Marina. Sitting around and talking with Marina and Clemente’s extended family. The sound of Tz'utujil, the Mayan language of San Pedro. These moments were the norm and the foundation of my family time.

All of the new and old friends. You know who you are and I will never forget you.

Buddha Bar. There were so many great times of splitting a liter of Gallo with friends, meeting fellow travelers, playing pool, and listening to a live band.

Getting my nose pierced with Sian, Anna, and Rachel.

Saying “hola” to everyone. Teresa explained to me that according to the Mayan culture of San Pedro, it is extremely rude to pass by someone in the streets and not greet the person. In her words, “You are considered a street dog. Those dogs just walk by with no acknowledgment of a person.” So I greeted everyone when I walked past them and they returned the gesture as if I was one of the community rather than a tourist.

Climbing mountains. San Pedro (and Guatemala) is filled with natural beauty unlike anything I have seen. I am thankful that I got out and experienced it – even if one of those days was incredibly tough.

Standing at the top of Volcan San Pedro

Salsa dancing. Every Thursday night, my school had salsa class. That is where I met Rachael. It is also where I remembered how much I LOVE dancing. I went out salsa dancing one Wednesday night. When I got home, my checks hurt and I realized that I had been smiling the whole time I was dancing.

Living so close to the lake. Visiting San Marcos for the day. Kayaking, swimming, the beach – I have always loved the water and being near it as part of daily life made my soul happy.

So, thank you, San Pedro! My time around the lake will always be near to my heart and an integral part of my trip.

From there, I have moved on to Antigua for Semana Santa, or Easter week. The festivities are supposed to be beautiful, symbolic, and unique. I can’t wait!

First Leg Packing List

One of the first questions I got when I told people that I was backpacking around the world was, "So what are you going to pack?" I fretted over this decision and read several different prescribed packing lists and watched numerous YouTube videos. Most sources were extolling the “less is more” route, which is not exactly my style. Eventually, I decided to ignore the prescribed lists and pack what I wanted. In general, I am not a high maintenance person and ended up balancing the practical with LE-specific luxuries. As I have now been on the road for six weeks, I have found this was the right choice for me. So here it is! All of the following items fit into my big backpack (a 75L Osprey Aria that I have named Fiona) or my small day pack. I also purchased a waterproof shell for my pack. I can turn the shell into a duffel bag and put my entire Osprey backpack in it and secure it with a lock. I carry my backpack like this on planes and buses to keep the straps from catching or someone breaking into my bag.

Clothing:

• 4 tank tops
• 5 t-shirts
• 2 long sleeve shirts
• 1 cardigan
• 1 dress (It's the 7-ways dress from American Apparel that can be either a dress or a skirt.)
• 1 skirt
• 2 shorts (1 pair of running shorts and 1 normal pair)
• 1 pair of yoga pants
• 1 pair of leggings
• 1 pair of Sahara pants that can be rolled into capris
• 1 pair of pajamas
• 1 bathing suit
• 3 pairs of socks
• 4 bras (2 sports, 1 strapless and 1 normal)
• 4 pairs of underwear (They are Ex Officio, and are wash and wear. Minimalist travelers only bring 2 pairs so I am being excessive.)
• 3 pairs of shoes (running shoes, flip flops, and dressy sandals)

Toiletries and Accessories:

• Toiletries – 2-in-1 shampoo and conditioner, body wash, lotion, sunscreen, daytime moisturizer, face cleanser, face exfoliating pad, deodorant, avocado oil (for shaving), argan and rosehip oils (for nighttime moisturizer), toothpaste, toothbrush, floss, razor, replacement razors, *feminine products, contact solution, *contact case, * extract contacts, *chap sticks, brush, *hair ties, *bobby pins
• *Makeup: BB cream, foundation, setting powder, blush, eye shadow, mascara, eyelash curler, travel makeup brushes
• Medicines (Cipro, altitude pills, malaria pills, stomach pills, ibuprofen, Tums, antibacterial cream, band aids)
• Camera with flotation strap (My camera is waterproof, dustproof, shockproof aka awesome!)
• 1 sarong and 1 scarf
• 2 travel towels (a large one for my long, thick hair and a small one for my body)
• Compass with my initials engraved on it – a very special gift from my best friend
• Steripen to purify my water
• External hard drive
• Chargers and cords
• Passport carrying pouch
• Sleeping silk
• Taser

Daypack Items and Extras:

• REI small backpack that can be rolled into a pouch and stored when not being used
• Collapsible water bottle (Thanks, Mike!)
• Journal (Thanks to Zubin and Reena!)
• Book (I absolutely LOVED “Wild” by Cheryl Strayed!)
• Eat’N Tool (spoon, fork, wrenches, and bottle opener)
• Eye mask
• Sun glasses
• Regular glasses (and I brought my old pair as a backup)
• Lifestraw (Thank you, Jonathan!)
• Flashlight
• Small purse
• Laptop
• *Unlocked cell phone
• *iPod and headphones
• Packing cubes (2 large and 1 small. The large ones are double sided so that I can keep clean clothes separate from dirty or damp ones.)
• Wind resistant, water resistant warm jacket (I got this instead of a normal fleece jacket)
• Rain shell
• *TSA locks for locking my duffel when I travel or for lockers in hostels

* Item is not pictured

There you have it! Hopefully this helps anyone that was curious or anyone planning on taking a trip. Since I began my trip, I have made a few minor changes which I will incorporate in the next leg of my trip. Until next time...

One Month In

As of yesterday, I am officially a month into my trip. I cannot believe it. I arrived in Mexico, bused through Belize, and am now in Guatemala. So how did this month go?

In all honesty, my first month was wonderful and difficult and incredible and lonely and beautiful and scary. I can still place myself in those first couple of weeks – everyday was spent searching for a few hours of happiness and comfort. I was trying to escape the loneliness that was brought on by my new surroundings and uncertainty about my trip. I enjoyed my time, but I considered completing the day a success and consistently asked myself, “When am I going to start enjoying this? When does the amazingness begin?” I wanted my trip to be more than it was at that moment and I just was not getting to that point. Looking back, it all trickled down to fear. I began my trip a fearful traveler and now I see the way that it impacted each day. I did not want to talk to others in a different language or venture out of my room. I did not want to be without internet because then I could not talk with those at home. I did not want to jump off of a bridge and into the water below. I wanted to be out of my comfort zone but only to the point that made me comfortable. Ironic, right?

And then my trip started to get good. I finally began to accept the rhythm of the road. I was less and less fazed by unexpected challenges or lack of a definite plan. Since the beginning of my trip, my mantra had been, “I can handle it,” but that was more of a saying to keep me going and ease my anxiety. Now it is a true mantra and one that I carry almost subconsciously. Each day is an improvement on the one before. Saying yes is easier and wanting a new challenge is becoming second nature. That underlying fear has been replaced with an underlying peace and joy; a comfort in my trip as well as who I am.

As I reflect on my first month, I know that my days were not ideal and smooth sailing. The thing is, that is okay. I did not decide to do a solo trip around the world because it is the easy or comfortable choice. I wanted to struggle and surpass the edges of my comfort zone and continually impress myself with new accomplishments. I would not want any other beginning. If I had not had these trials, I could not appreciate the happiness that I feel today.

This past weekend, I shared pizza and beer with fellow travelers from Wales, England, New Zealand, Denmark, and Holland. I felt no fear or loneliness. Only excitement and curiosity and contentment. We shared bits of our backgrounds and swapped stories and added new places to our travel bucket lists. Before we ate, I stood back, took a picture, and smiled because I am finally beginning to experience the amazingness.

And with that, bring on Month 2! To celebrate the end of Month 1 and the beginning of my birthday week, I will be climbing a volcano on Saturday, and then spending the day swimming and exploring Panajachal (a city on the shore of Lake Atitlan) with friends on Sunday. Have a blessed day, mis amigos!

Lessons Learned in Flores

I am not sure how to sum up what my time in Flores meant to me. I arrived at my hostel around six in the evening, watched a beautiful sunset while I ate my dinner, went to my dorm room, and proceeded to bawl for a solid 30 minutes. As in, shoulders heaving, could-not-catch-my-breath, loud cries, eyes-swollen-in-the-morning breakdown session. There were numerous factors that lead to this, but in summary, traveling solo is HARD sometimes. Needless to say, I did not sleep much that evening, but I got up in the morning with a renewed intention of conquering my time in Flores. And conquer it, I did! Though I had booked four nights, I stayed for a week because Flores ended up being exactly what I needed at that point in my travels.

Flores was the first time that I was completely on my own without any clue as to my next move. When I arrived at my hostel, everyone was in a couple and no one was speaking English. A few of the nights, I was the only one assigned to my dorm room. Fact: when you are traveling solo, your dorm room is a fantastic place to meet others, except when you are staying in a dorm room by yourself.  So I had to venture out of my hostel to meet people. I had met a woman from Canada on the bus and, once I got up my first morning, I made a point to set up lunch with her. We ended up spending the next few days exploring Flores and Tikal, meeting other travelers, and relaxing at my hostel. During these days, I learned that everyone else is feeling just as intimated as me. Eventually, I had wonderful conversations with those couples at my hostel and they ended up sharing some great stories and recommendations based on their travels. They had been in my shoes before and reassured me that I was on the right track to fully enjoying my time on the road. Relief had never felt so good!

Another challenge that I encountered in Flores was the pressure I put on myself to have a plan – what is my next destination, where am I staying, how will I get there, when will I leave, what am I going to do in my next place. Here’s what I have found: figuring out my next move and traveling to a city solo and then finding my hostel and deciding what to do from there has been the MOST STRESSFUL part of my trip. To the point that I cannot sleep the night before I travel and my stomach is in knots and I cannot eat. This is how I exhibit stress in my everyday life so these symptoms were not new to me, but I knew this kind of stress could ruin my trip. (As I am writing this, I am 3 weeks into my trip. I am used to traveling and no longer feel the stress. Morale of the story: it gets better!) In Flores, I purposely stayed extra nights for a few reasons – I very much enjoyed my hostel and the city, I had not come up with a plan of where to go next, and my friends were arriving in Flores the day I was originally set to leave. I learned these are all excellent reasons to stay in a place! This is MY trip; therefore, the only pressure to move on is the pressure that I put on myself. With that realization, the anxiety to spend my nights scouring travel guides rather than being captivated by my surroundings dissipated.

So what did I do in Flores besides learn some vital lessons? I visited Tikal. I talked with several fascinating people. I met up with Anna and Sian, and we decided to travel more or less than same path for the subsequent 6 weeks. I wrote and blogged and chatted with friends and family. I took photos and went canoeing. I explored Flores and became familiar with its narrow streets and boat system. I left Flores a better traveler than when I arrived. For all of this, I am grateful and content.

And so from Flores, I moved on to Lanquin and Semuc Champey, one of the most beautiful areas in Guatemala. You better believe I took some amazing pictures! Until next time, friends…